In 1821, the artist John James Audubon came up the river from New Orleans to teach a young woman to draw. The job lasted only four months, but the forest around Oakley Plantation gave him something far more lasting. Today that same setting is Audubon State Historic Site, 11788 Highway 965 in St. Francisville, and fall is a fine time to see it.
Why Audubon came
The Pirrie family, who owned Oakley, hired Audubon to tutor their daughter, Eliza. A misunderstanding with Mrs. Pirrie cut the arrangement short. Still, during his short stay he finished or started 32 bird paintings for the famous series that made his name. His journal describes magnolias, holly, beech and poplar trees alive with warblers and thrushes.
Inside Oakley House
Built around 1806, the tall, airy house is a lovely example of colonial architecture designed for Louisiana's climate. Its jalousied galleries, which show a West Indies influence, let breezes in while blocking rain and glare. The rooms are restored in the late Federal style of 1790 to 1830 to reflect how they looked during Audubon's visit. Oakley was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1973.
Behind the house, a reconstructed detached kitchen holds a weaving room and an ironing and wash room, and it is used for period cooking demonstrations. Two cabins once lived in by enslaved people stand nearby and anchor programs on the role of African Americans in early America.
Birds and trails
The site's 100-acre forest has peaceful walking trails, and birds still provide the soundtrack. Bring binoculars and take your time.
Plan your visit
The site is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and closes on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year's Day. General admission is $6 for ages 7 to 61, $4 for seniors 62 and older, and free for kids 6 and under. A guided house tour is $10, or $8 for seniors, and includes the grounds, gardens and structures. Call 225-635-3739 with questions.
It is a quiet morning in the woods with a great story attached.