Most barbecue joints will tell you about their smoke. At Salt Pepper Oak, the whole pitch fits in four words: all wood, no gas.

Fire first

The restaurant at 6721 Exchequer Dr. cooks on large offset smokers that it says are maxed out daily. Good meat, careful seasoning and steady fire management do the rest. The name hints at the approach. The sides and desserts are all made from scratch, too.

Ordering by the half-pound

Meats are sold by the half-pound. Sliced brisket is $14.75, pulled pork shoulder $8.50, pork belly $13.75 and turkey breast $14.00. Spare ribs are $3.50 a bone or $35 for a whole slab of 10 to 12 bones, and house-made sausage is $6 a link.

If you'd rather not do the math, plates come with bread, house-made pickles and onions: $16 for one meat and two sides, $21.50 for two meats and $26.50 for three. Bring a crowd for the Meat Sampler ($75), which piles brisket, pulled pork, turkey, pork belly burnt ends, sausage and spare ribs with all five sides.

Smoked prime rib plates come out Thursday and Friday starting at 5 p.m., at $35 for 10 ounces or $45 for 14 ounces. Beef rib fans can preorder the Dino Beef Rib, $36 per pound, Sunday through Wednesday for Friday or Saturday pickup.

Sides worth a detour

Don't skip the SPO 6 Cheese Mac ($9), made with orecchiette and a house cold-smoked cheddar sauce. The Roasted Creole Potato Salad and Charro Beans are $5.50 each. For dessert, there's a New York-style cheesecake with caramel ($7.50), and whole 9-inch cheesecakes can be preordered for $65.

Game day, handled

Salt Pepper Oak is booking fall tailgates now through its catering page, and shipping is listed as coming soon. Call 225-256-1341 or email info@saltpepperoak.com.

Photo courtesy of Salt Pepper Oak.